Today's blog is short and sweet because I have no signal for the iPad and have to use the iPhone. Last night in Scheggino was the best and friendliest I have ever experienced on any walk. After a fabulous breakfast and photographs with our host we set off on our way to Ceselli. The path today follows the river Nera and the old Roman road winds it's way through the valley of the Nera River Park. This has been the best signposted part of the journey. Because we were walking on the valley floor there was little air and the conditions were warm and humid, that said it was pleasant walking and the miles went in quickly. At a small hamlet we stopped for a break and watched an old woman wash clothes in an outdoor trough, this wouldnt be seen at home. In the small village of Ferentillo we took refuge from a thunderstorm in the local bar where we met three English couples who were just finishing a week of walking. It was nice to spend an hour with fellow travellers as this doesn't happen very often on the Via Roma. When the storm passed we said our goodbyes before walking the last few miles to Arrone. Our accommodation tonight is in Casteldilago, a fortified battlement above the town of Arrone and without the kind help of the local, Big Tom, who took us there in the back of his builders van we would still be looking. It was nice to finally get a shower but when I came out of it I discovered that Mary had been motivated by the old lady and had washed everything, yes everything. I couldn't leave the apartment and was dresses in a towel for the rest of the day.

What a difference a day makes or Mary whips off her wet teeshirt

Well folks this was the hardest day yet and on paper it was to be the easiest. This journey is certainly not as organised as the Camino and can be quite confusing. The day started with us leaving Spoleto in bucketing rain ,it was coming down in stair rods, but our spirits were good and we made the hard uphill climb to the famous viaduct. Now some people will know that Mary doesn't appreciate heights and her coping strategy is to put the head down and get across as quickly as possible and I am glad to say that the German group coming across from the opposite direction moved aside before there was an International incident. The path climbed across the mountain as described by the expert in the tourist information in Spoleto, take Umbrian Park path number 3, make turnoff to path 5 and then follow path 8 to Scheggnio, it will be tough but it is only 14K. After several hours of uphill climbing over white stones and dust that had turned to mud we were confronted by a wide river dissecting the path. This was becoming like one of those stupid management courses, how do you get two people and two haver sacks across a raging torrent without getting bloody drowned? You take off your socks and shoes, roll up your trouser legs and walk. After five minutes we were across, wet and tired. As I stood there soaked through from the rain with wet cold feet the expert from the tourist office was lucky that he wasn't near me. I'm not a happy person with wet cold whips clinging to me and murder was on my mind. Believe it or believe it not but things got even worse. We made it on to trail 8 which informed us we were only 1hour from our destination when like magic the trail disappeared. Yes disappeared. Trees, shrubs, wild countryside and no path, so we had no choice but to turn back. It seems that the Umbrian Authorities mean for the paths to be there at some stage but haven't completed them all. Some joke that is and I wasn't laughing. A detour of over 7 miles finally got us to  Scheggnio and the best accommodation ever. I have written tonight after copious amounts of local red wine which has considerably mellowed my mood or you would have been subject to a blog containing very foul and abusive language. Mary god love her just kept her head down, ignored my grumbling but could have been arrested when she stripped out off her wet shirt at the side of the road. But that would be a story for a winter night with large mugs of Irish Coffee.

Cream buns for lunch

We met our Dutch friends at breakfast this morning and they were in jubilant spirits after last nights World Cup victory. After breakfast we followed the winding streets through Trevi as they wound their way around the mountain until they reached the valley. The walk was the best yet as we walked through the acres of olive trees in the early morning sunshine. This region of Italy is world famous for olive oil. The markings on this walk can be rather confusing with signs for the Via Roma and Via Francigena being in conflict. We have been following the blue and yellow of the Via Roma but after about three hours walking a yellow arrow directed us to follow a path to the left. After going through several small villages the signs stopped and all we could do was to keep on going. Unfortunately we ended up walking along a main road for about four kilometres and it wasn't until we reached the Fonti Del Clitunno we were able to get back on track and follow the road to  San Giacomo. We stopped for a break in the square in San Giacomo and unexpectedly came across an absolutely fabulous pastry shop. I must say that my fresh fruit bun and cup of coffee was a very tasty lunch. An hour and a half later we were walking into the city of Spoleto but unfortunately the thunderstorms that have been threatening got us before we could reach our hotel. The thunder roared, the forked lightening flashed across the skyline and the rain was torrential. At around 3 o clock two wet Irish walkers finally arrived at the hotel  Dei Duchi in the centre of the old city of Spoleto. Tomorrow is a mountain walk through the Umbrian National Park but for tonight I am looking forward to the football match between Italy and England.

Truffles and mushrooms

Last night in Spello was the best meal I have ever had, that was until tonight in Trevi. Last night Mary had truffles and tonight I had truffles with wild mushrooms and Trevi olive oil. The walking is worth it, if only for the food. This morning we had a really lovely walk through the old historic town of Spello and then down the hill towards Foligno. This was pleasant walking in the early morning sunshine. Foligno was a very impressive town and we stopped for a break in the main square and watched the world go by. After our rest we continued out through Foligno towards our destination , Trevi, and walked along pleasant tree lined avenues. At this point I was really enjoying the walk without a hill in sight. As we turned off the path and headed for the village of Mattige on the Via Flaminia the incline started to increase and there in front of us was the hill town of Trevi. It looked impressive perched on top of the hill until the realisation hit us, we had to climb that hill. It was a hard hour of walking but eventually we made the lower plaza and stopped for a well earned drink. During today's walk there was the constant rumble of thunder echoing over the hills and at one point a flash of forked lightening. This is a sign of the change of weather with tomorrow being forecast as thunder showers. Tonight we met for the second time a lovely Dutch couple who are also doing the Via Roma. Trevi is yet another of those historical Roman towns that oozes history and atmosphere and we had a leasurely walk around its ancient walls and visited several museums before having dinner in an outdoor restaurant. Tomorrow's walk is about 25K so we will have to make an early start to finish before the afternoon heat and threatening thunderstorms.

The wild boar

This was the first morning of our walk and even though we would have preferred to have left earlier we decided to have breakfast that started at 7.30am. At eight we left the hotel after being waved off by the manager and set off for the long climb through Assisi . We stopped at the doors of the Basilica San Francesco so that our walk would be from St. Frances to St. Peter and then struggled up through Plaza Commune and eventually to Porto Cappuccini where we would leave Assisi and take to the National Trails that criss-cross through the Umbrian countryside. If this was to be a gentle walk through Italy then it had got off to a bad start with vertical walking and warm humid conditions. The walk along trail 50 was challenging both in its incline and also the under foot conditions. By the time we reached Santa dele Carceri we were near exhaustion. This was the hardest mornings climb I have ever done and was in its intensity brutal, just sheer climbing for three hours with nowhere to stop for a break. At the sanctuary Emilo we stopped for a break and enjoyed not only a life saving cup of strong coffee but also the company of a Dutch couple. It was difficult leaving the sanctuary, the thought of what lay ahead, the stiffness that had settled in, I could have stayed there but the journey had to continue. We had decided to make the mountain path climb to Monto Carceri and quite honestly the difficulty of the walk took away the beauty of the scenery. You were concentrating so much on your footing and your breathing that scenery was not important. At 1284 mts the ridge was reached and it was pleasant walking to M.Civitello at 1261 and here the scenery was spectacular. A lunch of energy bars, fruit and water sitting on top of the world is worth the agonies you go through to get there. The downhill paths that looked OK on the ordinance survey maps were anything but easy and as we stopped for a few seconds break we heard rustling in the bushes to our left. I tell you the sight of a wild boar just feet away soon made fatigue disappear and the sight of two Irish walkers running like f!!! down a path would have looked amusing if there had been anyone around to see it. The run didn't last long, fear or no fear. At path 54 we had to made a decision. The path was so rocky, narrow and with a vertical drop to your right we decided to turn back and take a longer path with a lesser descent. It really is a bit of roundabouts and swings. The longer path took longer and with the heat reaching 34 degrees we were glad to finally see the rooftops of Spello.

Last day in Assisi

Our stay in Assisi has been nothing short of  amazing.  The unspoilt small city is a history of  mankind. Buildings from the Romans BC to Basilicas in honour of St. Francis, St Clare , San Rufino and the numerous churches. The beautifully decorated Piazzas of Piazza del Comune and Piazza del Vescovado to name just two with their ornate buildings and small intimate cafés and restaurants and not a bit of graffitti in sight. It is all so perfect it actually seems unreal. We had a lovely walk yesterday through the in Umbrian countryside between the rows of olives to the Sanctury of San Damino where we spent time exploring  the restoration that was actually done by St. Francis. The walk back up the hill to Assisi in 34 degree heat was a little more uncomfortable. One of the highlights was seeing the original cross of St Francis that now hangs in Assisi's second great church Santa Chiara. It was nice seeing the original since we have a copy in our church back home. We registered for our walk at the Basilica di San Francesco and were given a lovely accreditation document that we now get stamped on our way to Rome. The road to Rome starts early tomorrow morning and follows mountain paths and trails all the way to Spello where we have prebooked accommodation. The path is very hilly but after four days in Assisi hills are the norm. Will let you know how we get on later

Arrived Assisi

Well folks we have finally made it to the St. Francis City of Assisi. We left Belfast yesterday at 3.15pm on a cold, wet Saturday and arrived in Pisa, Italy, three and a half hours later, to be greeted by bright sunshine and heat. The hotel was easy to find and was really luxurious. Yesterday evening as we were walking past the Basilica we were drawn by the sound of singing. We ended up at the Pentecostal Vigil Ceremony with the Cardinal, about 30 priests, and a magnificent choir. It really was a wonderful experience and a fitting welcome to Italy. Today we travelled by train to Florence and then changed to the train that brought us about 31/2 hours later to Assisi. The first train journey was horrendous and we ended up standing for over an hour on a packed stiffling hot carriage. Has the age of chivalry really died? All these young men sitting and not one would offer Mary or the other women who were standing a seat. Anyway aside from that everything travel wise was without a hitch and the scenery was stunning. Our hotel in Assisi is two minutes from the St. Francis Basilica and with fabulous views is a real gem. We went for a quick tour of the Basilica and then walked the Via St. Francesco, eventually arriving at Plaza Comuno where we sat outside and had a really tasty Italian pasta meal washed down with a large glass of beer. Life doesn't get any better. First impression of Assisi is wow. I already have a sore neck looking up at the most elaborate and beautiful buildings. It is so beautiful and perfect it looks staged. Can't wait until tomorrow to explore. The only down side is the weather. It was 32 degrees today and that worries me for the walk. It looks like it will be very early starting times but we will think of that on Thursday and enjoy Assisi.