Long Sunday walk

Well folks on a glorious Sunday morning we had to tear ourselves away from Sylvia, her family, and their farmhouse accommodation. Describing this as a farmhouse B and B would do it a great disservice. This is a complex organisation that has a beautiful swimming pool open to paying members, a log cabin at the pool for snack food, horse riding, vast acres of olive trees and their own label olive oil, cherry orchards, goat herd and their own goats cheese and of course a fabulous rural restaurant. Last night we had a stunning meal which even included their own produced honey. Everything was local produce and Italian food at its best. This morning their son, David, drove us back to the village and we started another stage of our walk. Today's walk was special as this was the first time we had no hills to climb. We walked along country roads towards Nerola where the Orsini Castle overlooks the countryside perched high on a rocky outcrop. No I didn't go up to see it but admired it from a distance that was on flat ground. It was a warm but enjoyable walk through the olive tree filled countryside until we reached Montelibretti with its famous 10th Century Palazzo Barberini and impressive defence walls with their lookout towers. On leaving Montelibretti, where we had a quick lunch, the olive trees disappeared and we then walked through vast orchards. Even though, on paper this was our longest distance, because it was flat, it was our best days walking. The scenery had really changed because it was all so organised and cultivated but never the less it was marvellous to finally see Monterotondo in the distance. Even though we arrived late in the afternoon our spirits were high when we finally booked into our small hotel that our previous nights hosts had recommended and had then phoned through a booking. Tomorrow we reach the outskirts of of Rome and will unbelievably have nearly finished. By the way these blogs were all written each night using the old fashion pen and paper,since there was very limited network , and now since we are near Rome  and I am getting a signal at long last I am typing them out and sending.

The hills are steep but the people are tops

Saturday 21st was a day when the Italian people showed their compassion and kindness to two mad strangers from Ireland who are doing a walk most Italians wouldn't consider doing unless it was by car. The day started with a warm 8am trek from the farmhouse accommodation to the small hamlet of Poggio San Lorenzo along breathtaking scenery. When we can get a signal we are using Google Maps to mark out our route since the official markings are so rare and unreliable. It was a pleasant walk into San Lorenzo but even at this early part of the morning the temperature was rising. From San Lorenzo we headed in the direction of Poggio Molano and after about an hour of easy walking we came upon a small roadside cafe run by two elderly sisters who were very pleasant and I enjoyed a wonderful cup of strong Italian coffee that would put hairs on your chest. (Mind you the skin head hair cut I got before leaving would need some strong coffee to help it). At the next roundabout this walk did its usual and went vertical. The climb for about 2 hours, in the heat, on a asphalt road, was something I could not describe in this blog, for fear that google censorship would close down the site. Feet burning, lungs bursting, and legs aching, we made the small but busy town of Poggio Molano where again the Italian people showed their spirit of kindness. People actually came over to us and asked where we had walked from and where we were going to? The local priest took me into his house, stamped our passbooks and with a smile and a blessing greeted us as pilgrims. Unfortunately our normal 20 minute midday stop turned into almost an hour and if there had been accommodation we might have stayed but we had to lift up our belongings and in true pilgrim fashion start walking on our journey. We have all seen television programmes about the worlds great journeys (train, boat, car,etc), well I want to do one on the Worlds Vertical or Rising Roads and I bet most of them are in Italy. Top of the list would be the bugger from Poggio Molano to Scandriglia. Our first distant view of Scandriglia was of buildings perched high above us on top of a very steep cliff and I thought, " no it can't be", (clean sanitised version) but it was. At 4.30 we finally made it and collapsed at the traditional fountain in the small square. We had no accommodation since we couldn't get a signal so I went into a small grocery shop to see if anything could be found for the night. Even though the lady in the shop spoke no English she took us under her wing. She went looking for accommodation and recruited another lady from the shop opposite in the quest. After 30 mins, a lot of phone calls and hand waving, they informed us everything was OK. They said that Sylvia had a farmhouse restaurant and would put us up. Within another 10 minutes Sylvia arrived in her car and transported us to an idyllic place with a restaurant and hospitality that was second to none.

After a break of a few days I have finally got a signal for the iPhone. This part of Italy suffers from signal failure and even the locals complain about it. On Friday morning we left the historic town of Reite and started what on paper was to be an  easy 22K to our next stop in Poggio San Lorenzo. The journey out off Reiti was reasonably flat and we reached the famous drinking fountain with ease. That is  if we hadn't had to constantly look for the official signs that are a total shambles. Then things started to change, we were still on a busy main road and it was climbing up into the mountains and not following the valley. By the time we reached Sabina we felt that there couldn't be any more hills to climb but after near two hours walking we turned on to a side road and it started to climb to Rocca Sinibalda. Five hours of non stop climbing and we were about to throw in the towel when we reached a garage and stopped for drinks and a rest. I will never forget that glass of ice cold coke. Revived spiritually and mentally we joined yet another side road that 12k later would take us to today's finish but it started to do what all roads seem to do around here it went vertical and for another three hours we made slow progress. We were a sorry sight when we finally arrived at our Farm House accommodation, Santa Guista, and the first thing the owner did was offer us a stiff drink. Even finding the Farm House had proved problematic and if it hadn't been for a lovely expat English woman we might not have reached it. What is it about Italy and communications? The signs for this walk are a total joke and no internet. I was in really foul mood yesterday at the finish and at that stage would have advised anyone to think again about doing this walk. Haven't changed my mind since. It's not all negative. The people, the food, and the accommodation have been fantastic.

Downhill all the way

Last night was the first time we have met people doing roughly the same walk as us. An Italian lady, a lady from Belgium who spoke four languages fluently, and a man from Holland, and all three had at some time walked the Camino Santiago. We all joined together and enjoyed a lovely meal in a local cafe and the happy memories of Camino friendship came flooding back. Mary and I have missed the companionship of fellow travellers and especially the company of old friends Austin and Pauline who shared our walk and my grumpy moods this time last year. There were times this year when Austins navigational skills would have come to the fore up on the mountains. This morning we took our time leaving Poggio Bustone and enjoyed a breakfast in the same cafe as the previous night. There was a heavy fog lying over the mountain and it wasn't until about 9.00 before the sun started to burn through it and we started to walk. The walk started very steeply down hill and this can be as bad as going steeply uphill because it puts a lot of pressure on your knees and hips and we were glad after we had passed through Bezzecca that we soon left the road surface and joined a trail down through the forrest. After about 2K we came out of the trees at the water fountain in the small hamlet of San Liberato where we took a short rest before proceeding onto what was described as a mule track. We made our way to Goisue Carducci  where we went up the 300 steps to Cantalice and the church of  San Felice. From the front of the church the Panasonic view of the landscape sweeping below you is amazing with Terminillo to the east and to the west the Reite plain with its lakes glistening in the sun. The next stone path guided us, after about 3K, to the Sanctuary of Santa Maria where we had a short rest at the convent. The final 4K were on minor roads that weaved their way through rows of vines and olive trees. It was a pleasant walk until you hit the edge of the city of Reite and like all cities it becomes boring walking through industrial estates and then acres of apartments. By 1.30 we had reached the old town with its magnificent walled fortification and soon found Plazza Oberadon and tonight's accommodation in the Hotel Miramonti.

Our friend the cat

Well this morning we left our accommodation in Pudiluco and stopped for breakfast in a small cafe overlooking the beautiful lake and watched the Italian rowing squad training. The first part of today's walk took us through the National Rowing Centre and we were looking forward to a pleasant day in bright sunshine. The guide said to go along the flat and then uphill to Labro. What it didn't say was that Labro was on top of a mountain and the path was very steep, overgrown with vegetation and badly marked. It took us over one and a half hours of hard effort and a strange thing happened on the way. We had come to a fork in the path with no markings to indicate the way. Out of nowhere a golden coloured cat appeared and took the left fork, the cat came back and rubbed against us, so we followed it. The cat went in front of us for about 3K, at times turning around to walk between our feet, until we finally reached a bend in the path and the fountain of Wrasse appeared in front of us. We were on the right road and the cat turned around and went back down the path. At one point today, somewhere in the mountains we crossed from the region of Umbria to that of Lazio. We kept climbing through the quiet villages of Glues and Ruccilo that seemed completely deserted. We saw the cross of St. Francis and then the famous Beech of St Francis but quite honestly by that time I had lost the will to live. After all the hours of climbing the descent into the Holy Valley of Reite is equally as hard. Today's walk was said to be about 20K so you can imagine our surprise when at 2.30 we reached a crossroads that informed us that our nights destination in the Santuary ot Poggio Bustone was still 11K away. The last 2K into Poggio Bustone is sharp uphill and I don't think we would have made it if it hadn't been for the help and support of three young Italian chefs. When they heard what we had walked they thought we had covered about 34K and I must say it felt long. They would need to get distances and signs sorted out for this walk because it really isn't funny when you are doing it. Tomorrow is short and from our cliff top position we can see the lights of tomorrow's destination.

Vertical climbs, brambles and good food

Still no signal for the iPad and my wee fat fingers have problems with the phone keypad so excuse spelling mistakes. Last nights stay in the fortress apartment was different but at least I had enough dry clothes this morning to start the walk. The walk today was strange. The start was beautiful as we left Arrone and looked for somewhere to have breakfast but nowhere opens early in Italy so it was slices of pizza and glasses of water sitting at the side of the road. The first couple of hours were delightful walking along the old Roman road as it wound its way along the valley following the river. We passed through the beautiful village of Casteldilago and everything was perfect. After passing Santa Maria our journey totally changed.We had to climb out off one valley and cross into the next. It was the steepest, hardest hour and a half of vertical scrambling I have ever done. It was over loose stones and seemed to climb for ever. Finally we reached the summit at Cascata Delto Marmore where we stopped for several minutes to get some air into our lungs. What then followed was another delightful walk beside a river until we came near our destination, Piediluco, where the path narrowed and was covered in brambles before closing completely. Scratched and bleeding we had to make a detour and ended up crossing a corn field to join a road. When we eventually arrived in Piediluco at about 2,30 we stopped at the Trattoriada Mariln where the owner arranged our accommodation for the night. We have a fantastic room with a large balcony and Panasonic views of the lake. I have to say that the food on this journey has been unbelievable. Tonight's starter was truffles followed by baked trout. The food just gets better and better. It makes the walking worthwhile.

Today's blog is short and sweet because I have no signal for the iPad and have to use the iPhone. Last night in Scheggino was the best and friendliest I have ever experienced on any walk. After a fabulous breakfast and photographs with our host we set off on our way to Ceselli. The path today follows the river Nera and the old Roman road winds it's way through the valley of the Nera River Park. This has been the best signposted part of the journey. Because we were walking on the valley floor there was little air and the conditions were warm and humid, that said it was pleasant walking and the miles went in quickly. At a small hamlet we stopped for a break and watched an old woman wash clothes in an outdoor trough, this wouldnt be seen at home. In the small village of Ferentillo we took refuge from a thunderstorm in the local bar where we met three English couples who were just finishing a week of walking. It was nice to spend an hour with fellow travellers as this doesn't happen very often on the Via Roma. When the storm passed we said our goodbyes before walking the last few miles to Arrone. Our accommodation tonight is in Casteldilago, a fortified battlement above the town of Arrone and without the kind help of the local, Big Tom, who took us there in the back of his builders van we would still be looking. It was nice to finally get a shower but when I came out of it I discovered that Mary had been motivated by the old lady and had washed everything, yes everything. I couldn't leave the apartment and was dresses in a towel for the rest of the day.