A birthday and another walk finished.

Well folks we left the beautiful alpine village of Buching early this morning and started on the last leg of our journey on the King Ludwig Way and believe me it was a day that had everything, beautiful scenery, magnificent castles, terrifying mountain paths, diversions due to landslides and then the joy and ecstasy of finally making the finishing line in Fussen. The early morning walk through a succession of small sleepy hamlets culminated with us walking into a village to be confronted with mothers and children getting ready for first communion. The girls in their snow white dresses, the boys in Bavarian costume along with mothers in colourful Bavarian dresses was a colourful and unexpected sight. Not wanting to intrude in their celebrations, but feeling honoured to have seen it, we walked on towards the Pollathscanyon. The walk this morning was remarkable by its beauty with the snow covered peaks to the front and side of us and the waters of the lakes on the other. This seemed to be a perfect end, not only to the walk, but also a fitting way to celebrate Marys birthday. Blue sky, shining sun, rolling countryside, birdsong and easy walking paths. We could see the first of Ludwigs castles sitting proudly on the mountainside in front of us and knew that when we reached Schwangau our finish would be in sight. We hadn't realised that the castles, Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau, were so close together and that a small tourist industry had developed in the valley between them. During this walk the predominant factor has been the silence from human noise, allowing us to really appreciate the beautiful sounds of nature, but upon arriving at the castles we were bombarded with human noise as we encountered hundreds of tourists pouring out of buses and cars. It actually felt strange and we were, at first, glad that the KLW directed us away from the crowds and towards the Alproseway that seemed to go over the mountain and into Fussen. This mountain path was the scariest journey we have ever encountered. One hour on a foot wide path with at times a sheer 500 mt drop down into the lake below and cliff rocks to the right. I can't describe how terrifying that path was but when we finally made it to the famous Lech falls we were too emotionally drained to appreciate the beauty. The saving sight of a small cafe allowed us to restore our shattered nerves with a large drink. Suitably fortified we walked along the river side and then crossed the bridge to enter the stunningly beautiful town of Fussen where multitudes of people are sitting out eating and drinking in the bright sunshine. After getting showered and now changed we are going to join them and find somewhere to celebrate a birthday and another walk finished.

Out of the mists appeared dead frogs, a cart load of singing women and the Edelweiss.

Last nights stay in the Hotel Post, Wildsteig, was a wonderful experience of friendly hospitality, fabulous food and an overall feeling of relaxation. I had the best bowl of soup ever, wild garlic leaves  with cream and it was to die for. When we said our goodbyes, this morning, with the promise that we would return, last nights dense fog had changed into an early morning thick mist. The mist gave everywhere a quiet, eerie, almost dark dangerous underworld type of feeling as we headed in the direction of  Weis and its UNESCO, world cultural heritage site, the Weischurch. Along a small road that linked several hamlets we came upon a small dainty church, that could only seat about ten people, but never the less it was ornate, clean, full of flowers and lit candles. Amazing. We then walked along a fairly barren, moorland path, with the morning sun trying to burn away the mists and fog, until we entered a forest that would eventually bring us to the imposing church that dominates the landscape and has created a world reputation for pilgrimage and retreat with more than one million visitors each year. The large onion dome towered high above us as we entered the small hamlet, but it was only after climbing up the steps, and entering through the enormous oak carved doors that we were hit by the magnificence, the beauty, the light infused space of this Art Rocco inspired church of the "Scourged Saviour of the Wies". Songs, poems, prayers and books have been written so all I can say is that Mary and I were impressed. There was a special feeling.

We had arrived early and practically had the building to ourselves, but, on leaving almost an hour later, there were several bus loads of tourists arriving so we got the experience without the annoying clicking of cameras. We walked down the hill to the local Gasthof for coffee and hot chocolate to find that they had had another famous visitor. Photos of the Russian President, Gorbachev, when he stayed in the Gasthof, standing with a wide smile and an even bigger glass of beer. Time to leave and find the path through Trauchgau to Halblech and our final destination at Buching. Most of the way was undulating with the path constantly changing from farmland to small forests. On one open stretch of path we were intrigued to find a line, a series, of dead frogs all lying belly up in the middle of the path and the grotesque procession went for almost half a mile. Later as we entered a small forest by a mucky path we could hear singing and then from around a bend appeared a large wooden cart pulled by two enormous horses with a driver, about eight women dressed in alpine gear, and all singing away merrily. Upon reaching Truchgau the landscape dramatically changed and became totally alpine with the snow capped rocky mountains  around you on three sides. We passed several ski lifts as we walked through the group of small hamlets that would take us to our Alpenhotel in Buching. As I'm now sitting on a sun drenched balcony, looking over the snow capped mountains, watching idiots with multicoloured chutes paraglide on the thermals, I can reflect that the most outstanding memory from today's walk, for me was the abundance of brightly coloured flowers that cascaded down from the mountains and through the trees. Bright, bright yellow, deep blues and the sight of streams of beautiful small white flowers which I think were the famous Edelweiss . It matters not, this is Sound of Music country so the sight of these rivers of white, streaming out off the snow line, brought on a song. Tomorrow is our last leg of the walk and takes us past the legendary castles, down a deep ravine and a finish at Fussen. 

Getting lost and re -finding the way before the fog came.

Today's walk didn't get off to a good start. We had decided to have an early start so after we had breakfast we shouldered our backpacks and headed out of Peiting towards the Ammerschlucht and a path that would take us to Rottenbuch. Well the April Fool joke was on us as there were no KLW signs to be found but after stopping locals for direction we finally got on the right path to Rottenbuch but only after having walked an extra two miles circumnavigating an industrial estate. The terrain was flat until we had to make an hour of nearly vertical walking that took us through another forest before it finally broke through the dense foliage and emerged into open countryside. From that point the walking was pleasant as we passed through several farms and then finally saw the familiar onion shape of the church spire of Rottenbuch in the distance. Now Rottenbuch joins that group of Camino towns, like Astorga, that look to be very close but as you walk seem to stay that same distance away and it takes what seems like an eternity to get there. Eventually we passed under a tunnel and the beauty and magical mystique of Rottenbuch surrounded and overpowered us. Rottenbuch is a monastery town that gleams, pure white,emitting an aura of calm and peacefulness that descends down around you as you pass through the arch leading to the church and former cloisters that are now family homes. In 1073 Rottenbuch had a church, the Altenmunster, but after a series of fires it was in 1773 that the work began on the present day frescos and baroque altars which have been restored, in recent years, to show and highlight the beauty and joy of the Southern German baroque era. After the church and before heading on we had a pit stop in a little cafe for cake and drinks. One of the negatives of this walk is that there are usually no stoping points from start to the finish of each day's walk so today we made the most of this unexpected coffee break. After leaving Rottenbuch the KLW was well signposted towards our end of day destination, Wildsteig and the Gasthof Zur Post. This was pleasant walking through beautiful farming country, with unfortunate muck spreading smells, until we had only four kilometres to our lodgings when, like the Camino's, KLW threw in a curved ball. Just as we were congratulating ourselves on having experienced a lovely, fairly easy days walking, apart from the fact that the sun hadn't broken through the cloud cover, we rounded a bend on the path, and the way took itself off in an upward direction. It was two exhausted and breathless walkers who climbed the final series of steps that led to the local church, with the welcoming sight of our Gasthof opposite, and the thought of a long, cool glass of Bavarian beer to revive us. We were lucky to arrive when we did because about fifteen to twenty minutes later a thick misty fog rolled across the mountains giving everywhere a magical, mystical appearance, but you wouldn't want to be out walking.

Garlic to muck spreading but always with views

Last nights stay in Gasthof zur Post in Raisting was highlighted by an absolutely fantastic traditional Bavarian meal with enough steak to feed a whole family. The apple strudel with custard was to die for. This morning we walked through the hamlet of Wessobrunn, passing a wood yard where we watched men preparing large logs with traditional implements. The path took us through several farms before entering a forest with an almost vertical descent to the valley floor below. Even at this early hour the sun was shining in a cloudless blue sky and sending shimmering shafts of light through the trees. Next we had the tough climb out of the forest leading us to a small country lane that gently meandered uphill until it ended and we were directed across mucky fields. A steep stone path took us into our second forest but this time it was the overpowering smell of wild herbs that attacked your senses. Everywhere was covered in carpets of wild garlic that cascaded down the slopes and between the trees. Mary and I reminisced about her Granda Cushnan since he was a devout lover of the medicinal properties of wild garlic. The Granda Vincent would have been in his element with the garlic, thyme, rosemary and mint that was freely growing. After the culinary delight we were brought back to the present with the steepest climb that led to a series of almost vertical steps. These leaf covered steps dragged the life out of us for almost twenty minutes and it was with relief and joy that we collapsed onto a rustic bench at the summit. Out of the forest we had the delight of walking along a path that weaved its way through the rolling countryside and in bright sunshine. The only problem was that the herbal assault on the senses was now substituted by the smell of farmers muck spreading. The little village of Forst gave Mary the opportunity to visit the local church with its memorial to the locals killed in wars. Lunch was sitting on a bench overlooking the mountains watching an eagle swoop down and collect his lunch of mouse. After that we made our way up towards the mountain, Hoher Peissenberg, with its stunning views but the hardship of the climbs were soon forgotten as we drank in the beauty of the snow covered mountains.  The rest of today was pleasant walking through rural countryside until we reached the pretty town of Peiting where we are staying in Apenhotel Pfaffenwinkel.

Large Cathedrals, a tiny church and awesome views.

After a very substantial breakfast we left the Hotel Seefelderhof and walked up through the Herrnstrasse to the famous Cathedral of Mary, the Marienmuenster. This is the most famous of all churches in Bavaria, and after being mesmerised by its beautiful architecture and frescos, I can understand why. You could stand, transfixed, all day and admire the beauty of the intricate paintings. The ceiling is quite simply stunning. Well Mary did what Mary always does, and lit a candle, then we headed back to the trail where a statue of St James was showing us the way. The first section of today's walk was along pleasant country paths and then it wound its way through fields, always passing dainty, beautiful hamlets that are too small to be included on the map. We walked on lovely lanes and at one point were directed to cross over several fields. After about an hour of walking in the bright morning sunshine we entered into the first of today's forest sections. The path under foot changed dramatically with exposed, wet tree roots and wet stones making progress slow as we climbed out of the valley towards the tree covered ridge. On the climb up we passed several religious grottos but imagine our surprise when we discovered a very small church at the top. It could only hold about twelve people but there were fresh flowers and lit candles. When we left there was another lit candle. Outside they even had a summer seat where you could enjoy the magnificent mountain views. The path then followed the ridge before dropping down into agricultural land that spread out in front of you. It felt like walking through a landscape painting by one of the old masters. The second of today's forest climbs was hard and at times brutal but as we emerged from it the Camino society had placed a bench for you to take in the beauty of the view. The snow covered mountain peaks of the  Zugspitze rose up in the distance as Mary and I watched several eagles hover above. What a place to enjoy a drink and our packed lunch. After the forest climb we were again on the rolling plains and it suddenly struck us what had been different about today's walk. The lack of modern day societies noise, there was no noise pollution. We had been enjoying the beauty of the sounds of nature without any interference from man. The last climb to Wessobrunn was one of those gradual gradients that lasted an hour and drains you of strength and energy so it was a tired couple of walkers who reached a sign proclaiming Santiago 2605 kilometres. That's for someone else, our wonderful day was finished.

Eagles, Monks and Schnapps 2

I'm sure you are wondering why today's first blog was titled Eagles, Monks and Schnapps. I ran out of space on the blog ( restricted to one page) and even though I wrote about the monastery it was cut off and finished with us arriving at Andechs. The climb into the monastery was steep, very steep and by the time we got there we were hot and breathless so it would have been rude not to stop for a drink. The monks of  St. Boniface's Benedictine Abbey have been brewing beer and distilling Schnapps on Bavaria's holy mountain since 1455, so it would have been wrong, and indeed could have caused an international incident, if two Irish visitors did not partake in their kind hospitality. After a few glasses I found my spiritual oasis. These monks had everything, beer, schnapps and food from their organic farms. Sitting on top of a mountain eating and drinking, what a life. After about an hour Mary dragged me away screaming and yelling from my new found soul centre but in the words of Arnie, " I'll be back".
The descent along a wooded mountain path was quite difficult but soon we made the valley floor. It was a pleasant flattish walk that took us to the finish of today's walk in Herrsching on the shore of the Ammersee. Our hotel is in Driessen, on the far shore, so the KLW uses a boat for the trip. After an eventful day we arrived, tired, at our hotel.

Eagles, Monks and Schnapps.

It was with some trepidation that we awoke this morning to the realisation that the walking would start today. After a wonderful breakfast the receptionist, in the Fischerhaus Hotel Starnberg, started to explain the route out of Starnberg and how we could find the King Ludwig Way. This is one of the friendliest places I have ever stayed in and when we arrived down in the reception area she presented us with several maps of today's walk along with bottles of water and apples. A great start to our journey and so it was with heightened spirits and a bounce to our step that we walked up the road that would lead to the Maisinger Schlucht. Soon we were walking through a rural landscape with clusters of Bavarian style houses glistening in the bright sunshine. We entered the Maisinger forest and were guided by a wet, stoney, wood path that meandered in unison with the river that flowed against our direction of walking. I forgot to say that one of the first directional signs we encountered was not the large K for the KLW but rather the yellow scallop shell on the blue background for the Camino that goes from Munich to Santiago. We were on another Camino as we walked the forest path surrounded by the beautiful colours of nature bursting out of her Winter sleep and embracing the the sounds of Spring as young finches, thrushes and other small multicoloured young birds found their singing voices. This all added to the beauty of the first five miles which seemed to fly by but I had to remind Mary that today's walk was going to be about 16 miles and that sprinting pace wouldn't last all day. A sensible paced walk brought us into the Bavarian hamlet of  Aschering where we had hoped to make a pit stop but with it being Easter Tuesday everything was closed so the order of the day was to keep walking. After Aschering the terrain changed from the sheltered fairly flat wooded path with the strong sunlight streaming through the trees to a white gravel road that climbed , at times steeply, through rolling countryside that was broken up by the sight of Bavarian Churches with onion bulb shaped spires dotted in the distance. A lunch of bottled water and apples sitting on a log watching eagles doing graceful gliding, as they looked for their lunch, was a very soothing experience. Suitably refreshed we headed on only this time battling against a strong headwind that had suddenly appeared along with dark angry looking clouds. It was a windswept duo, though thankfully dry, that finally reached the historic monestry at Andechs